Like I said "anal" is good here.;) The first vid is good for removing pistons. The second, since I could not run it, is unknown.

Ben, just do not put the engine back together yourself. I am sure plenty of us would love to help and learn as well. I am sure that Sean for example would love to stand around and watch. He will point to something a few times and do his best to get some grease on himself. Relax Sean, every good team needs a guy who can order and get a good pizza. That can be your role.

Sure we can have a complete reassembly day where the whole thing goes back together. I'll do the labor, somebody who knows what they are doing like Glenn or Ron can guide/instruct and the rest of ya'lls can observe.

Like Glenn said, before you pull the pistons out check to make sure that the rod and rod cap have been stamped. This engine has already been rebuilt so I'm guessing the shop that built it already stamped them. Each rod and cap should have a number stamped on them from 1 to 8 for the appropriate cylinder. Make note of which direction the stamp is facing. We will want to install them in the same direction that they are now. If they aren't already stamped don't pull them. Wait until someone can stamp them. If Glenn doesn't have the stamps (I'm sure he does) Phil does and I can barrow them from him.

As for the cage, I worked on it from about 10am until 4:30pm and I finished making the drivers side main hoop support and got it welded in. I also made the drivers side door bar and got it welded in. I didn't take any pictures but I will later and post them up. All I need to do is make the passenger side door bar and get it welded in and the roll bar will be completed.

I got a bottle crate today to contain the pistons in order. I will mark them to indicate direction as well. As always, thanks for your great work on the cage. :drink:

Carb
 

I'm still holding out hope for the 174.

This looks like a pretty good carb for that app. Check specs:

I don't think we are going to want a vacuum secondary carb. I would go with a double pumper.

What's the theory?

I don't know much about carbs, but the only thing I can kinda sort of think of is that IF we were to run a big cam, which we wouldn't necessarily change if the blower works, there can be issues with low vacuum.

Basic rule of thumb:
Auto trans/Vacuum sec.
Manual trans/Mech sec.

Vac secondaries are better milage/mech sec for BEST accel.:thumbs_up:

You can find a used Holley carb at the Long Beach Swap meet next weekend. Phil and I went to the last one and there were a ton of them there. You should be able to pick one up for around $50. Then we can just rebuild it. A rebuild kit cost about $50. We can also use a power valve block off plate ($4.50 from Summit) and run larger jets in the secondaries so we don't have to try and tune it for the power valve. This is the same way my carb is on the Chevelle.