bronco 2 starting issues
 

i have a 1988 ford bronco 2 that i got for 600 bucks. it ran fine then all of a sudden i was driving and it died, thought it was cold snap but that wasnt it. it seemed to be a wiring problem to my fuel pumps that kept them from turning on so i replaced them all without knowing that was the problem so then i bypassed the main wiring by connecting my own wiring up from the battery to a switch then to the two fuel pumps they turn on and i get fuel to my injectors now but my truck starts now but wnt idle and if it does it sounds horrible and then dies. i just found that i have no fuel to my throttle body and i cant figure out why it wont get fuel. what could cause it not to get fuel?

Have you checked your plugs? Maybe they're just fouled and not igniting.

(Edit !!just re-read your post, missed the got spark! so this may not be the problem.)The ign modules on these went out all the time.. Does it have a thing on the dizzy that looks like this ?


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Will it run for a few seconds if you spray carb spray in intake ?

The fuel pump will not run with key on- engine off. It should only come on during cranking and engine running. It is controlled by the computer. If you just turn the key on, and go check it, it will not have power. They work like that for safety, so if you crash and break a fuel line, it will not pump fuel out to burn you up. Not sure how you tested it, just saying how it should work.

found this also:
Printer Friendly Confirmed Fix Vehicle Application: 1987 Ford Ranger Super 2.9L, Vin T, Eng Cfg V6

Customer Concern: The engine died while driving. There is no injector pulse, spark is OK. The computer will not communicate with the scanner to do the self test. There is no voltage to the reference voltage (vref) circuit of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
Tests/Procedures: 1. Disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) Sensor, and TPS one at a time to see if the 5v vref returns on the Orange/White (O/W) wire.

2. If the voltage does not return with all sensors disconnected, access the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) behind the Right Hand (RH) kick panel inside the truck. Check for battery voltage on pin 37 and 57 Red wires. Check for ground on pins 20, 40 and 60 (should all be Black/Light Green (BK/LG) wires).

3. If the powers and grounds are OK, locate the O/W wire at pin 26. Go several inches from the PCM and cut the wire. Recheck for 5v on the wire coming out of the PCM. If voltage is not present, replace the PCM and recheck operation.

4. If the voltage returns with the O/W wire cut, locate and repair the short to ground in the wire harness.
Potential Causes: Harness
Shorted MAP Sensor
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Shorted Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) Sensor
Shorted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Diagnostic Codes: None
Author: Bob Mordorski
Average Reported Mileage: 120000



Confirmed Fix Summary

Confirmed Fix 1 - Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Power Relay
1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Ground Supply



Confirmed Fix Details

Tech Reported Fix Details Confirmed Fix
Jim Cruse
March 01, 2010 1989 Ford Ranger, Super 2.9L, Vin T, FI, Eng Cfg V6 *
Replaced Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Power Relay
- Traced problem to a bad EEC relay, when problem occured, there was 1 volt on 5 volt circuits, and injectors had 5 volts. Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Power Relay
Patrick Gleason
October 30, 2006 1987 Ford Ranger, Super 2.9L, Vin T, Eng Cfg V6 *
Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
120,000 miles Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Adam Busch
December 12, 2006 1987 Ford Ranger, Super 2.9L, Vin T, Eng Cfg V6 *
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Ground Supply
- Checked and found voltage on ground side of pcm. Unplugged pcm and voltage went away. Found pcm ground wire damaged at battery cable. Repaired ground wire.

Have somebody spray carb spray or starting fluid in the intake ,while another cranks it and see if it will fire that way. If you have spark, and it is happening at the right time, it should start. If it runs on the spray, you have a fuel problem. Since you hot wired the pump, the injectors could not be firing.

yes it runs for a second but runs really rough then stalls out. would it be the fuel injectors?

Can you keep it running while spraying into intake? It should smooth out if you can keep it going on the carb spray. Sometimes I will spray on-off-on-off until I hit a mixture it likes.

Check the fusible links at the starter solenoid ( I think it should be on the fender). These are the ones that look like wires, but are fuses that melt. If they dont look burnt/open on the outside, give them a little tug and see if they stretch. The wire can be broken inside, and you won't see it. 2 of the blue ones go to The electronic power relay and the fuel injectors.

It is possible the timing chain jumped. Put #1 cyl on TDC compression and check where the dist rotor points to. Make sure it points to # spark plug wire on cap. If it just jumped a tooth or so, might be hard to diagnose .