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02-20-2015, 12:33 PM
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#61
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Ryder, is the 6L rotating assembly you have for an LQ4/9?
Heads and block are apart and being cleaned. Will be pressure tested and block honed on Monday. The heads look like they *might* make it, but have tiny amount of warpage. The block I'm pretty doubtful of. You can only go 0.010 over max on that year there was a lip on the cylinder with the broken ring that was pretty easily 0.005. . . If I heard troy right he might have a GenIII 6L block.
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02-23-2015, 10:36 PM
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#62
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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I *should* finally have an answer about the block and heads tomorrow. They are all apart and cleaned . One of the heads has been pressure tested and was fine. Hopefully there is no other ominous news.
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02-24-2015, 04:47 PM
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#63
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Being checked now.
Made a basic plan.
Troy is going to select a reground cam with my "street performance" target. Probably keep the 114LSA, but maybe increase or alter the durations a little.
We'll keep the stock rockers.
We'll go with GMPP or LS7 lifters over the Morels. He basically said unless I'm spinning a bigger cam there's really no point, the OE is actually better for moderate RPM performance, far quieter and less expensive.
King bearings
He has his own fasteners he had run and supplies to other builders. Basically Class 1 spec, at least ARP quality for about half the cost.
Internal balancing.
Go with forged pistons at least.
Here's the $1,200 question:
It's apart and I can go to a fully forged 383 stroker for +$1,200~
I'm tempted because it's not that much more and because it is a street performance car, not a race car I plan to spin up to peak HP all the time.
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02-24-2015, 11:11 PM
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#64
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
We'll go with GMPP or LS7 lifters over the Morels. He basically said unless I'm spinning a bigger cam there's really no point, the OE is actually better for moderate RPM performance, far quieter and less expensive.
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Uhm, come again?
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02-24-2015, 11:16 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 510
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The rotating assembly I have is for a L76. Its a gen4 rotating assembly. It comes with a 58 tooth reluctor wheel but that can be changed by a machine shop pretty easily. I still have it if you need it $250 for everything. I need the cash for odds and ends on my build.
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The Race Car lol: 2004 Cadillac CTS-V... With things.
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02-24-2015, 11:23 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 510
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If your contemplating going stroker... Do it. Its a whole different animal. The problem is, your heads (that have already been milled if I remember correctly) are warped and are essentially useless unless you want to run E85 or race gas all the time. And, from what you posted about the block, that may be out too much as well.
If you can hop on a LS1 with "zero miles" I'd look into that. A cam change and a set of 243s with a LS6 intake would get you good power.
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The Tow Pig: 2013 Silverado 1500 crew cab
The Race Car lol: 2004 Cadillac CTS-V... With things.
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02-24-2015, 11:28 PM
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#67
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryridesmotox
If your contemplating going stroker... Do it. Its a whole different animal. The problem is, your heads (that have already been milled if I remember correctly) are warped and are essentially useless unless you want to run E85 or race gas all the time. And, from what you posted about the block, that may be out too much as well.
If you can hop on a LS1 with "zero miles" I'd look into that. A can change and a set of 243s with a LS6 intake would get you good power.
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If he's buying new pistons anyhow there's nothing stopping him from running a dished piston in whatever size to get his desired compression.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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02-24-2015, 11:39 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
If he's buying new pistons anyhow there's nothing stopping him from running a dished piston in whatever size to get his desired compression.
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This isabsolutely true, but if he's warped an already milled head, that combustion chamber might be getting mighty small by the time its done. He'll have to have it milled again for sure if they are warped. I've called around to a few places for my build, heck you can get 30cc dishes if you want.
Hit this guy up and tell him I (ryridesmotox on LS1tech, aka dude with a 04 CTS-V, aka Ryan Hilderbrand) sent you. https://m.facebook.com/BluePittKustoms
He set me up with all the stuff I needed for my build at a very reasonable price. I just sent my heads to him also for a little porting and such. My rotating assembly was about half he cost I had anticipated at the beginning of my adventure.
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The Tow Pig: 2013 Silverado 1500 crew cab
The Race Car lol: 2004 Cadillac CTS-V... With things.
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02-25-2015, 10:59 AM
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#69
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
Uhm, come again?
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His experience of building with them. On a moderate street performance motor like mine, nothing actually shows up as an objective advantage in the data. It's not that they are terrible, just the ROI isn't there. He had technical spiel about why GM OE lifters are overall better for moderate applications but I don't recall the details. Real high performance motors was a different story. The LS7 lifters seem to be the go to for street motor rebuilds. I think that's what Nate uses for that matter.
Ryder, so other than the reluctor, the L76 rotating assembly can go into an LQ9 (Gen III 6L Iron block)?
I'll know about the block and heads today hopefully. If they are ok, probably stay with stock displacement and essentially same cam to avoid the cascade of other costs, like a retune, before which I'd want to do headers, which includes new cats, a cross-member rework, etc. $1k~ in rods and crank starts to look like $4k real fast. Meaning my <$4k rebuild including all parts and labor starts to look like $8k. Cars!
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02-25-2015, 11:04 AM
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#70
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 510
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Yea should fit no problem. And the rods are beefier in Gen4 stuff. The cranks are good to 900hp so that's fine too, I have the stock pistons on the rods right now. But if you're going dished, you can just toss em.
The only problem is, unless you want to ship it, I don't have a way to drop it off for you. My car is mid build and my truck only has 2nd gear cuz I'm chasing electrical problems that resulted from 20 years of abuse. Or if you are in the Temecula Valley area I can meet you, drop it off with someone, whatever you need.
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The Tow Pig: 2013 Silverado 1500 crew cab
The Race Car lol: 2004 Cadillac CTS-V... With things.
Better to be judged by 12 than to be carried by 6.
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