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Old 04-14-2010, 12:53 PM   #11
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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Wait, what happened to your engine again?
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:05 PM   #12
BADDASSC6BADDASSC6 is offline
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My passenger side seatbelt needed to come out. To take it out I had to remove the seat. I figured, while it was out I should dye it black, so I took out both seats and both belts.

While the belts were in FL getting fixed and I couldn't drive the car I decided to pull all of the headliner out, repair the cracked pieces and dye them all black too.

Then I decided to buy and install the Mustang e-brake to clear my T-56 that I had thought about doing for awhile. So I cut up the floor, bolted it down and mended the stock cable to the Mustang cable. Which has broken twice, but I think I've got the crimping process down better now.

Then I decided to remove the center console once the e-brake cover was off and lay out the one piece fiberglass console.

Then I decided to remove the door panels and the dash because everything else was getting changes from blue to black, so might aswell do it all now.

But first I decided to do some plastic welding and gluing on my cracked dash before dying it.

After removing the dash and all of the vent tubing I realized the steering column needed to be painted black to match the interior. So off came the steering wheel and horn assembly.

Then I realized that while my guage clusters were out with the dash I should remove the clock and install my boost guage behind the cluster.

Then I decided to make some fiberglass bezels to move my speakers from the dash down to the kick panels because the carpet dash cover kills all of the high frequencies. Which involved a bit of rewiring, not just the speaker wires, but moving the wires behind the kick panels elsewhere.

Then I decided to redye my seats because they looked more gray than black. Also I almost forgot, I needed to dye my seatbelt holsters and the e-brake handle black too.

Wait you forgot the part about dyno tuning it so you would know how much power it made or the part about taking it to the track to see what it would run. Got to fix those things too.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:02 PM   #13
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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Wait you forgot the part about dyno tuning it so you would know how much power it made or the part about taking it to the track to see what it would run. Got to fix those things too.
I'll dyno it, but no one else is tuning it. I already got it perfect and I don't want some hack shop screwing it up.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:26 PM   #14
BADDASSC6BADDASSC6 is offline
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I think you did a great job tuning it. I bet most shops would not be willing to tune a SC CARB car. I was impressed when you did it. Now if you can just let your nuts hang like a man and put it on the rollers to show us the fruits of your labor.
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:55 PM   #15
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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I think you did a great job tuning it. I bet most shops would not be willing to tune a SC CARB car. I was impressed when you did it. Now if you can just let your nuts hang like a man and put it on the rollers to show us the fruits of your labor.
LOL



I'm not in the military. I'm a sissy in grad school. My nuts are comfortable close to my body where they've been since birth.

Next free dyno day I'm there. Jeff put one together, I'm sure Ben or Sean can do it too.
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:20 PM   #16
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LOL, I certainly have nowhere near the mechanical expertise to do something like that
But this is how it goes for Sean...

Decides to wash the car.

Now has to do the windows and inside.

After washing and drying realizes the rims need to be cleaned and tires dressed.

Sees the exhaust tips are a little less that perfect and has to wipe them down.

remembers that we has not used the clay bar on the car in a month and does that.

Needs to wax the car since the clay bar took all that off.

After the coat of wax remembers that it is out in the elements soooooo much that he needs another layer of wax.

Since putting on 2 coats of wax realizes that the windows got some wax on them and has to clean those again.

Walks around the car and sees the lip on the front bumper and the rear valence could also use some back to black.

He then gets in the car and thinks about how much he needs to vacuum out the inside because it is "filthy"

After completing that starts to look at the car and walk around it again to see if there is anything he missed and realizes that Leedom is gonna kick his ass because we have spent way too much time cleaning a car that sees the light of day about 2 hours a week, those 2 hours are while being washed and pampered, and decides to call it quits instead of risking a beating by Leedom.

The End!
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:51 PM   #17
94cobra69ss39694cobra69ss396 is offline
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Well I'm glad I tore it all down because I fixed a lot. So besides fixing the exhaust leak and lifter tap (which was driving me crazy) I also found what was causing a high idle issue I was having. What was happening is that the car would idle at between 1600-1800rpms when I pushed the clutch in when coming to a stop. It would idle there for about 1-2 seconds after I came to a complete stop and then settle back down to 1000 where the idle is set to. Well while I had everything apart I noticed that the two screws that hold the throttle plate in the TB were a little loose adn allowed the plate to move. I tightened them up and no longer have the idle issue. Now when I push in the clutch it idles at 1200 and drops to 1000 as I coming to a stop just like it is supposed to.
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:41 PM   #18
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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Well I'm glad I tore it all down because I fixed a lot. So besides fixing the exhaust leak and lifter tap (which was driving me crazy) I also found what was causing a high idle issue I was having. What was happening is that the car would idle at between 1600-1800rpms when I pushed the clutch in when coming to a stop. It would idle there for about 1-2 seconds after I came to a complete stop and then settle back down to 1000 where the idle is set to. Well while I had everything apart I noticed that the two screws that hold the throttle plate in the TB were a little loose adn allowed the plate to move. I tightened them up and no longer have the idle issue. Now when I push in the clutch it idles at 1200 and drops to 1000 as I coming to a stop just like it is supposed to.
Who made your bad lifters?
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Old 04-15-2010, 07:06 PM   #19
Throttle CrazyThrottle Crazy is offline
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Who made your bad lifters?
and if they were being bad, why not just put them in time out?

sorry, could'nt resist. In the automotive industry it is completely inacceptable to use the term "bad" to describe a failed part. I have to pound it in to my technicians to keep them from using the term. B.A.R and G.M both do not like it. Every repair order has to have a compaint, cause of failure, and correction. Technicians like to try to use bad as a cause of failure. Example ( performed diagnosis for right front window will not roll up. Tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found "bad" window motor.) How about " tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found window motor has an internal open circuit." The word defective can be used but you still need to describe why on a repair order. So when they do this, I tell them "if the part is bad, try putting it in time out."
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:38 PM   #20
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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and if they were being bad, why not just put them in time out?

sorry, could'nt resist. In the automotive industry it is completely inacceptable to use the term "bad" to describe a failed part. I have to pound it in to my technicians to keep them from using the term. B.A.R and G.M both do not like it. Every repair order has to have a compaint, cause of failure, and correction. Technicians like to try to use bad as a cause of failure. Example ( performed diagnosis for right front window will not roll up. Tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found "bad" window motor.) How about " tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found window motor has an internal open circuit." The word defective can be used but you still need to describe why on a repair order. So when they do this, I tell them "if the part is bad, try putting it in time out."
Sounds like corporate marketing psyschology more than sensible tech advice. Like the same reasons the cars in video games don't get fucked up when they hit a wall. The manufacturers don't want them to appear unsafe. Here, the manufacturers don't produce "bad" parts either.

But regardless, I'll rephrase my question for you. RON, who manufactured your fucked up lifter? Better?

P.S. My friend Mike, used to be a Mercedes Tech. When a customer told him that the car was making a "funny noise," he would tell them to come back when the noise was "hilarious."
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